Monday, March 19, 2012

Slice it and Dice it... Part 2!


Not everyone has a 200mm plate to print parts, not even me.... hell, I haven't got a printer... yet, but that's another story.
Someone asked for 100mm batches on my RepRap Wallace (Nema 17 and M8 rods edition), so I've fired up Blender and tried to make the best out of it.

2 comments:

  1. Hi Nuno,

    you got the wallace M8 going yet? I am also making one, I bought an emaker huxley indigo edition, been having quite a few problems too (but that's how we learn!), and thought you might need some animation on it as I see you haven't posted anything about it in a while...
    I used the scad file, altered the necessary for 8mm rods, past it thru SFACT, with some SLOW settings, otherwise my huxley stops dead in mid print for no reason, and even thou sometimes it does stop, I have discovered a good way to try and get it back to finish the print: M114 thru pronterface gives the position of the print head - open the gcode file, find that place, and erase everything beforehand, save to SD, and away she goes again!
    I'm in tenerife, my email is andymid2001.3D@gmail.com, I'm also quite new to this, but I felt I had to build a wallace if only to assure myself that I can make a printer that can do a whole print reliably!! I am truely fed up with my huxley stopping dead in mid print, if I am there I can rescue, but if the bed cools off and the print comes off, it is much more difficult!

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    Replies
    1. I was on vacation and that is the reason why i'm getting behind on my posts. :p
      As I'm building the printer for the university, i've got to wait for the permission for budget, so it's a kind of slow, but i will build one for me, for sure, i've already ordered somo lm8uu from ebay!
      Now, getting into your problem, the same thing occurred whit AltLab Cupcake, for reasons unknown to me it stopped the extrusion or moving around, but that went away after we've disconnected the ATX PSU and connected again, we suspect it was lack of power, the heated bed was connected with a Y connector to one of the axis controller, but this is just a wild guess.
      In the past few days I've got my attention to the firmware, and from the reviews i'm inclined to choose Marlin, they said the movements are smoother.

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